Experience unassuming elegance at Ristorante Lucano
By: Karen Deyle

THE PLACE

Ristorante Lucano is one of Rochester's finest "hidden tables," a place with outstanding food, hidden behind an unassuming and unexpected façade. The restaurant is tucked in a crowded plaza at East Avenue and Winton Road, sharing purple canopy space with Canaltown Coffee. At this unlikely venue, hosts and owners Chuck and JoAnn Formoso have been providing Rochester with a quiet, elegant dining experience featuring an authentic taste of Italy.

THE FOOD

The main menu features solid favorites with few changes since they opened more than five years ago.

Start with antipasti, then choose from primi piatti and secondi piatti, first and second plates, in the Italian tradition of serving a pasta dish first with a meat dish to follow. Chef Kevin George, formerly of Mundo Grill, accents the main menu with a schedule of weekly specials. On Wednesday night, they serve braised rabbit. Thursday features lamb shanks, long simmered in wine with veggies. Saturday is rich and tender osso bucco.

I chose the beet salad on the recommendation of a work contact whose family loves Lucano. The insalata rosso di sera ($6) featured ripple-cut matchsticks of fresh roasted beets tossed with a bit of balsamic vinaigrette and a bit of pecorino cheese. The marriage of salty, sweet and tangy was a perfect way to enliven the palate in anticipation of a hearty meal.

My companion chose the Rotolata di salsiccetta alla brace ($8), grilled Sicilian-style sausage served with grilled pepper strips. Narrower and more delicate than the sausages we pile on the grill in summer, these are made for them by Palermo's, using finely ground and blended pork, salt and pepper. The grilled yellow and red peppers add sweetness.

For my entrée, I chose the lasagna casareccia ($15), the house lasagna with six delicate sheets of pasta layered with ricotta, meat sauce and mozzarella. The gratin dish held a perfect portion. A quick trip under the broiler melted the mozzarella to fork-lifting stringiness and crisped the edges of the cheese.

My companion chose the scaloppine ai funghi e cognac ($19), tender veal cutlet medallions sautéed in a creamy cognac sauce with mushrooms. The sauce was rich and mellow, with the edge of the cognac simmered to softness. Both the mushrooms and the veal were perfectly seasoned during the pan searing so that flavors penetrated right to the heart of the dish. A mound of mashed potatoes supported the medallions, and a toss of roasted rustic vegetables added a caramelized sweetness.

There are several housemade desserts, made by JoAnn's parents. Her father, a retired pastry chef, makes the cheesecake, and her mother makes the tiramisu. Unfortunately, by the time we finished our meal, the last pieces had been spoken for. Instead, we chose a slice of one of the desserts that are shipped from Italy by Bindi Italian Imports. The torta frutti di bosco ($6) was wonderfully tart and not too sweet. We ended our meal with tiny dark cups of bitter espresso with lively lemon twists.

THE DRINKS

There is a full bar and a small and thoughtful wine list. It is, as it should be, predominately Italian with the exception of one or two Finger Lakes offerings.

THE SERVICE

Our server was polite and explained specials and offered suggestions. On this busy Friday night, the service was leisurely, and perhaps bordered on lagging. Our server offered apologies and kept us informed of delays.

NOTEWORTHY

"Chiseled" initials dot the walls of the wine room, painted in the same eye-fooling three-dimensional effect. For a donation of $100, you can immortalize your own initials near your favorite table. Proceeds benefit cystic fibrosis and breast cancer charities. More than $3,000 has been donated.

Southern Italian Comfort
by Karen Miltner

"Before you sigh in disbelief, "Another Italian restaurant in Rochester?" consider this: Ristorante Lucano is the place other restauranteurs go on their nights off." ... "This is fine dining Southern Italian style."... "The first visit left such an impression that I'm already planning my second."